The body locates on the chassis and must be pushed forward as far as it will go. Four holes must be drilled either side of the front floor; positions indicated. The running board mount must be placed in position, 41" from the front of the chassis and 38 and a half inches apart, and the chassis drilled to accept same. The running board, 46" long x 7 and quarter inches wide must be placed in position an equal distance between the wheels. The body may also be also be bolted3 on through the flange either side at rear above the rear axle. Another hole is drilled through the running board, flange on body and chassis, the rear mudguard then clamped between the running board and the flange. The rear mudguard mountings are placed in position and the chassis is drilled to accept same.
The front mudguard is bolted through the front edge of the running board, and the modified mounting is bolted to the front wing support. The 105E Ford radiator is bolted to brackets provided, and bolted in position 1inch from the fan.
The bulkhead will require drilling and cutting to suit individual requirements, to fit instruments, choke, starter, ignition switch, dipper, coil, cut-out and hand brake. Assuming that the wiring has been left intact, the lights, etc. may be reconnected as original. Front lights may be mounted on the front wing mountings but must not be more than one foot from the outside of car to centre of lamp. The rear lamps may be fitted but are a bit ugly, motor cycle type are better and easy to obtain.
The steering column may be raised by elongating the holes in the top of the chassis and placing washers between the chassis and steering box at the front bolt. Centre section of floor is replaced and small floor section around pedals. Drill floor to accept throttle pedal, and drill bulkhead for linkage. The linkage has to be bent to clear bulk-head on full throttle. The throttle return spring may be weakened fractionally by bending.
With the body bolted on, the join between the bulkhead and the body may be filled with body filler.
The car is then ready for painting. The simulated artillery wheel covers may be bolted to the original hubcaps. The seat may then be upholstered. The battery may be fitted on the running board.
You now have a complete Siva Replica Edwardian Roadster, various extras are available as per the Siva Brochure.
If only it were that easy! I was 18 or 19 when I built my tourer but my father was a mechanic in his past and we had fairly comprehensive workshop equipment to hand so maybe I faired better than other young "Siviste." (Siviste is a town in the province of Sivas, Turkey and seems an ideal description of a Siva enthusiast!)
1. Knowing that cooling could be an issue, I fitted a Ford export water pump (available from the Ford Sidevalve Owners' Club) and mounted a full size fan lower on a "jockey" pulley - over 40 years, cooling has never been a problem.
2. On my Siva, I braced the rear panel (where the rear seat was on the saloon) with 1" square tube around the perimeter of this panel and this really did strengthen the chassis.
3. Mounting the body on 1/2" blocks of rubber reduces stress at the bolt locations and prevents squeaks as you waft along country lanes towards a suitable picnic site.